It began like any holiday; the excitement and the expectation of what was ahead. Although there was a tangible sense that this would be different. I was in a group of strangers and so my opening days mainly focused on trying to get to know everyone. Something which may added or taken away from experience, that I am not sure. It may have numbed my original experiences as it all felt a bit dreamlike. Although this probably would have been the case anyway.The first night and morning in Kenya had a happy 'any ol' holiday' feel to it. But this quickly disappeared with a shock when we experienced Kenya outside of our safe little bubble. We witnessed an outrageous world usually hidden from our western eyes
and minds. The largest slum in the world is Kibera in Nairobi. It is home to anywhere between a quarter of a million and well over a million. They don't know. It is humans living in their own filth. Sewage runs down the streets and hungry animals feed on top of piles of waste.I had heard about slums before and I had tried to picture them in my mind. But no image I could ever create would come close to the truth. First we saw it from above, miles of corrugated roofs. Up above Kibera we were met by a group of young kids swimming in what could only be described as a swamp pond. These kids waved, screamed, shouted and gave us the middle finger. Quite a collection of greetings! Some of the younger kids gave us the index finger in an attempt at the international sign. This mix continued throughout Kibera as we drove through. Some people waved in joy, while others swore and shouted at us. Others just stared in contempt. Apparently, due to the recent filming of 'The Constant Gardener' and several televisio
n shows in Kibera, it has become a popular route for the tour buses. This, understandably, has led to some unease. These people don't like being gawked at like attractions at a zoo. In the past, smaller groups of Mzungu (Swahili for westerner or white person, what everyone calls you there) had been allowed to walk the streets of Kibera. However, to do this they would need about four Kenyans to every Mzungu. In a big group of 38 people, this wasn't possible. We were, however, able to visit the health clinic in Kibera which was supported by Moving Mountains. Although there was reservation on most peoples part, I felt strangely safe walking in Kibera. But I also felt the stares. I have never been so self-conscious of skin colour. It certainly makes you reconsider ideas and behaviours that are common in Ireland.
n shows in Kibera, it has become a popular route for the tour buses. This, understandably, has led to some unease. These people don't like being gawked at like attractions at a zoo. In the past, smaller groups of Mzungu (Swahili for westerner or white person, what everyone calls you there) had been allowed to walk the streets of Kibera. However, to do this they would need about four Kenyans to every Mzungu. In a big group of 38 people, this wasn't possible. We were, however, able to visit the health clinic in Kibera which was supported by Moving Mountains. Although there was reservation on most peoples part, I felt strangely safe walking in Kibera. But I also felt the stares. I have never been so self-conscious of skin colour. It certainly makes you reconsider ideas and behaviours that are common in Ireland.Even strange
r was the fact that two minutes down the road we were surrounded by Land Rover and Mercedes car dealerships and high rise buildings. The contrast of lifestyles and wealth in Kenya, like many African countries, is extreme.One image, which for me, shows this contrast perfectly was of a man sitting in his Mercedes Benz in the middle of Kibera getting it washed by locals. Unbelievable perhaps, but true.
r was the fact that two minutes down the road we were surrounded by Land Rover and Mercedes car dealerships and high rise buildings. The contrast of lifestyles and wealth in Kenya, like many African countries, is extreme.One image, which for me, shows this contrast perfectly was of a man sitting in his Mercedes Benz in the middle of Kibera getting it washed by locals. Unbelievable perhaps, but true. The experience in Kibera stayed with everyone that day. Although no one really talked about it, the atmosphere was noticeably subdued. Luckily for the morale of the group, we were quickly bused off to an exhibition match for the blackcats male and female teams. The blackcats are football teams that have been set up all over Kenya. There are supported by Moving Mountains (the charity we were working with) and consist of street children being given a second chance. They recently lost their manager and were playing these matches as a celebration of his life. I, maybe stupidly, assumed
that the funeral had already taken place. But no! Over a week later the funeral took place near where we were staying at the time. It was an open casket, a goat was sacrificed, and there were drums, singing and dancing all night. I found this odd in such a hot country, leaving the body so long before burial.
that the funeral had already taken place. But no! Over a week later the funeral took place near where we were staying at the time. It was an open casket, a goat was sacrificed, and there were drums, singing and dancing all night. I found this odd in such a hot country, leaving the body so long before burial. But then again there are many customs which we cannot begin to understand. For instance, one custom which was still in practice in western Kenya, the area we lived and worked for the majority of the stay, stated that if a widow had not remarried by the time she died she had to be wed to a man after her death and the marriage had to be consummated. An idea that is found revolting in the western world, but we cannot attempt to understand these things.
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